Cheesemaker: a journey

All The News

2012-01-18T09:17:00.000-08:00

This past Saturday, I did a radio interview on the Fresh and Local Show in Minneapolis. I was more than a little nervous approaching the microphone, but Susan Berkson, the able host, made it almost painless, guiding me from one topic to the next with grace and ease. You can hear the podcast by clicking the link above.

While there, I met Stephanie Meyer, writer, food blogger and photographer extraordinaire, who was kind enough to invite me to be a part of the group Minnesota Food Bloggers. And, while I've been posting bits and pieces to facebook over the past several months, I haven't blogged since August. Consider this my re-entry into the blogosphere. I'll catch you up on what has definitely been the most eventful stretch of Alemar Cheese's existence.

Even before we placed at the American Cheese Society conference, I knew we were going to be included in last fall's issue of Culture Magazine. They do a cheese plate each issue, and I was thrilled to get a call from Kate Arding, one of the magazine's founders, asking if I'd like to have our cheese included in an upper Midwest collection. Ken Monteleone of Fromagination in Madison, Wisconsin, has been a fan and suggested Bent River's inclusion. Of course I was thrilled to say yes.

Also last summer, I got a call from Darren Ryan, owner of Cream and the Crop Cheese Selections out in northern California. He'd visited a cheese shop whose buyer had been in Wisconsin, tasted Bent River, and said he'd like to sell it if possible. Darren was just getting started, but the idea of bringing Alemar Cheese to my home state has been a long time goal. Plus, he seemed like a really great, earnest guy, so why not give it try?

The results have been a terrific. Darren has gained entry into numerous markets, cheese shops, and restaurants. Over the holidays, he worked out a deal with Teatro ZinZanni, a high end dinner-theater-meets-Moulin-Rouge production that runs from Thanksgiving to New Year's. Over the course of the performances, over nine thousand people started the evening off with Bent River. Cool, huh?

While we're on the subject of distributors, I must give much love to Classic Provisions. Based here in the Twin Cities, they have taken over the delivery and sales for Alemar in Minnesota, and what a stellar job they've done. With the help of Sally, John, and everyone at Classic, demand for our cheese has risen, and I have more time to make cheese. They have been a joy--no exaggeration--to work with.

And make cheese I have. I doubled production over last year's holiday season, and with all the help and another year under my belt, it almost seemed easier. Credit is also due to my new right hand, Josh Gravelin. Josh and I worked together years back in the bagel business. He went on to play bass for a number of national acts in Austin, Texas, but eventually the call of Minnesota held sway. He still plays locally, and has a pickup business (for guitars and basses), but he's had enough time to intern with me, and that has made a huge difference. Thanks, Josh!

A few other notable press mentions: The Heavy Table featured us on a Minnesota cheese plate, and local cheese blogger Jill Lewis gave us a rave in her blog, Cheese and Champagne (she also wrote the HT article). Also, this nice post--from Wisconsin, no less. The biggest story came from Dara Moscowitz Grumdahl, one of the giants of Minnesota food and wine writing. She did a segment on All Things Considered on MPR, and filed this article. Last, a rave from David Rosansky, cheese buyer at Surfas in Los Angeles. Surfas sells to many of the top restaurants in LA. Heady and humbling stuff to have this kind of positive attention.

So, the final half of 2011 was busy, fun, and memorable. It is so gratifying to get recognition, not to forget make a living, doing something this personal and important to me. My profound thanks to everyone who has played a part in moving Alemar Cheese forward.

What did this lengthy missive teach me? To blog more often. Which I probably will.

ACS

2011-08-06T11:09:00.000-07:00

What a week it's been here in Montreal. More to come, but I have to mention that Bent River received a third place ribbon in the Camembert category at the (North) American Cheese Society competition, topping dozens of other entries. One of my first posts covered my trip to the ACS conference three years ago in Chicago. I knew next to nothing about making cheese. As it turned out, a few weeks after, I made the decision to start Alemar Cheese, fully committing myself to this journey. What a nice affirmation, and my sincerest thanks to all those who had a stake or interest in our success. Au revoir for now!

2011 Winners | American Cheese Society

www.cheesesociety.org

facebook

2011-06-19T19:35:00.000-07:00

I am a wayward blogger most of the time, but I do make more frequent updates on facebook. Happy Father's Day, and have a great night.

Return

2011-05-17T14:24:00.000-07:00

I'm back in Mankato, and despite good intentions, never found time to post again from the road.

Perhaps it's for the best, as a little time to reflect can often help. I had a great weekend, half work, half pleasure.

The work, and I use the term loosely, continued on Saturday with a drive down to Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park, Illinois, the city of Hemingway and Frank Lloyd Wright. I started sampling around 11, and stayed until 2:30. I met the owner, Eric, and several great workers: Charlie, Marcus and Eva, thanks for your help! We paired the cheese with both wine and beer selections; I had to check each a couple of times to be sure we had it right. And great thanks to Lydia, the Cheesemonger, who brokered the visit and had the good fortune to be in Europe on a cheese tour.

The Market is very well appointed, and has a restaurant all under the same roof. Definitely worth a drive if you're anywhere in the Chicago area.

On my drive into Chicago, I learned that the Cubs were playing the San Francisco Giants, my boyhood, and still, heroes. After 50 years in San Francisco, they finally won the World Series last year. So, though the weather forecast was gloomy, I went.

I scalped a ticket along the first base line, normally a great place to watch a game. However, in this instance, the rain and the wind combined to make it a most inhospitable position. I toughed it out a few innings, thrilled to see the team in the flesh. After that, I retreated to covered ground and stuck it out until the seventh inning. Shorty after my departure, the game was called. The Giants won, though the game was much more about the weather than good play. No matter, I was glad I made the effort.

One of my first posts mention Nick and Nora Weir, who put me up when I attended the American Cheese Society Conference in 2008. They lived in the suburbs then, but are now empty-nesters and have a condominium in the heart of the city.

They were kind enough to loan me a bedroom for the weekend. Nick's brother John, my dear friend, flew down on Sunday to gild the lilly of the weekend: Elvis Costello, my favorite, was in town. John and I went The Purple Pig mid-afternoon and held court there for a long while. The food there is spectacular (thanks for the recommendation, Meg from Pigtale Twist!); if you are anywhere near downtown Chicago, go there, now. Order everything, but especially the "neck-bone gravy". This was Nick's recommendation, and it was an incredible winner. The kind of dish that drives you to plot an imminent return.

The show was amazing. It should be noted that I would yell "bravo" if Costello came out and sang show tunes. in this case, he reprised the spinning songbook, a tour he did in the mid-Eighties. A large Price is Right wheel with 40 songs, with guests invited to spin. Elvis plays whatever the arrow points to, and it is a laugh; was then and was now.

What a great blend of commerce and culture. This was what I had in mind when I started this venture.

Road Trip

2011-05-13T21:07:00.000-07:00

Here I sit, sated from a delicious meal at the Underground Kitchen in Madison, Wisconsin. They've had Bent River in their menu for the past few months, so I had to pay them a visit.

Earlier, I spent a couple of hours sampling cheese at the Willy St. Co-op. This is the first time I've ever sampled outside of Minnesota, and, here in the heart of cheese country, I felt more than slightly weird giving my spiel, which usually includes "made right here in Minnesota". Thankfully, the people of Madison were gracious and appreciative.

Tomorrow I hit the road to the Windy City to demo at the Marion Street Cheese Market in Oak Park. It's always a pleasure to meet customers face to face, and equally enjoyable to spend time with the cheese professionals who sell Alemar Cheese.

I'll post more this weekend, but a final note of thanks to Justin Nolan, my host this evening. Before I knew much of anything about cheesemaking, I enrolled in a short course class here at the University of Wisconsin. Justin was kind enough to loan me his couch for the week, and this is the first time I've been back in town. Dinner was on me, a small gesture of thanks for his generosity. He was a great dinner companion, and I hope we get the chance to do it again soon.

Fromage Blanc

2011-04-01T05:24:00.000-07:00

I'm pleased to announce a new addition to our roster, Fromage Blanc. It's a fresh cheese that takes about a day to make, but can then be enjoyed immediately.

Some people compare it to a lighter version of cream cheese, and there are definite similarities. For me, it's a blend of cream cheese, yogurt and creme fraiche. There is the acidic tang common to all of them, but the texture is not quite the same. What sets it apart is the amazing milk from Cedar Summit Farm. The milk's great complexity and depth shine through, leaving a long, distinct and pleasing aftertaste.

What does one do with Fromage Blanc? Here the fun begins. It can be used in both savory and sweet dishes, and as a springboard for experimentation. I've been making the cheese in small amounts for about six months, and I wanted to have a few chefs work with it before I brought it to market.

Why not start with a Frenchman? Vincent Francoual, of Vincent on Nicollet Mall in Minneapolis, liked the Fromage Blanc immediately and is now using it for a variety of things, notably spread on flatbread with bacon and ribbons of green onion. I've tried this, and it's delicious.

Ben Jacoby at The Craftsman, also in Minneapolis, is using it in a cake frosting. I've had it for breakfast with fresh fruit, and whipped it into mashed potatoes for a nice hint of acid. I'm looking forward to hearing from others as the cheese enters the marketplace.

So keep an eye out wherever you find Bent River, or ask your local cheesemonger.

"Organic" Growth

2011-03-08T05:11:00.000-08:00

It's been about a year-and-a-half since the first wheel of Bent River reached a retail shelf. Since then, we've seen a slow but steady increase in sales. Somewhere in the back of my head, I had prepared myself for a moment when things would catch fire, and sales would double overnight. That's been the case a few times, for instance when an article appeared in the Star Tribune. Lots of orders poured in over the next few weeks, but it didn't dramatically change demand over the long haul.

When I started Alemar Cheese, I made a number of projections laid out in impressive, spreadsheet form. Much of my projections were based on advice from those with far more industry knowledge than I, but in the end, it was mostly an educated guess.

Revisiting these spreadsheets, it appears I got it half-right. We've grown about half as fast as I projected. The good news, after these many months, is that we've reached a point where even in the slow months, we are at or near the break-even point. Unless you have access to unlimited funds, this is a very good thing. You can't make cheese in the dark.

When I've been asked what my dreams are for the business, I've always replied that I'd like to make a living and enjoy the work, that I'd like to see the company grow in an--forgive me--organic fashion. Which sounds nice, doesn't it?

Except, growth does not happen by accident, unless you are incredibly lucky. Someone has to actually promote the business, make the sales calls and work demonstrations (in-store visits). Since I am largely a one-man band, that's my job as well.

I have a background in sales. I know that success depends on finding enough people to say yes, and that there will be a certain percentage, usually a large number, of nos. At Alemar Cheese, fortunately, the yeses have far outweighed the nos. The problem in this case, however, is that I've never sold something this personal before. I make the cheese, after all. My identity is wrapped up in that package, too.

I can't bring myself to shout from the hilltops how great my product is. I want it to speak for itself, and that's the great thing about making something edible, a taster can tell in short order whether s/he likes it or not. Most buyers like the cheese--a few haven't. I've developed a thicker skin as time goes on, and I also acknowledge that I'm still learning, and hope always to, be a better cheesemaker.

Some of our newest accounts have been most gratifying. In December, we started delivering to the Willy Street Co-ops in Madison, Wisconsin. Madison is Mecca when you're talking about cheese in the Midwest. Stuart and Michelle, the cheese buyers at, respectively, the East and West locations, have been really enthusiastic about our cheese. This led to Ben Hunter from the Underground Food Collective discovering, and adding us to their menu, which looks terrific.

Finally, Steve Young-Burns from Pastureland introduced me to Lydia Burns (no relation) of the Marion Street Cheese Market in Chicago. She's been ordering for about a month now. I'm thrilled to know our little company is making a bit of headway in the Windy City.

There is no road map, nothing exactly, specifically the same for guiding any one business. When I started this blog, I used the word "journey" front and center. It's been just that, and with a bit of luck, I hope it will last a good long while.

Cheese for Martha

2011-01-25T11:51:00.000-08:00

Thanks to Dan and Angie Bastian of Angie's Kettle Corn, I'm happy to report that Bent River will be a part of a Minnesota gift basket going to Martha Stewart and her producers.

They are taping the show today that will air on Thursday featuring gluten free products. Congratulations to a home-grown business that is going big time! I've known the Bastian's for many years, and this could not be happening to a more deserving, kind couple.

Thanks again, Dan and Angie, and all the best!

2010

2010-12-21T03:44:00.001-08:00

It's almost over. A year of more highs than lows, 2010 draws to a close and I have just a few moments to reflect.

The last few months have been a whirlwind. First, there was a heavy production schedule to meet holiday demand. December has been filled with "demo" visits, with a flurry more before Christmas. Look for us tomorrow afternoon at Kowalski's in Eagan and Oak Park Heights, and Byerly's in St. Louis Park. On Thursday, we'll be at Lund's in Wayzata and Kowalski's in Woodbury. Finally, on Friday, look for us at Just Food in Northfield over the lunch hour, and Cub Foods West, right here in Mankato, from Three to whenever I run out of gas.

There have also been a large number of mail orders to attend to. I love shipping out cheese to places like New York City, thinking our tiny business has made it to the Big Apple.

And, thanks to Co-op Partners, a shipping outfit in St. Paul, our reach has expanded on the retail level as well. You can now find us at Co-ops in Rochester, Duluth, Madison, Wisconsin, Sioux Falls, South Dakota, and Iowa City, Iowa. We're interstate, man.

After Christmas, the girls and I will head to New Mexico to visit family. I'm looking forward to the time away, but don't want to dwell on it too much, because our Open House is tonight and there's much to be done. If you are anywhere nearby, please brave the cold and snow--there will be food, wine provided by Minnesota Wine Club, and great music from Fish Frye, official band of Alemar Cheese. The event runs from Seven to Nine.

Thanks to everyone who helped make this year a success, and I can't wait to see how 2011 unfolds!

New Article from The Mix

2010-10-27T09:32:00.000-07:00

The Mix Magazine just released their November-December issue. I had a great conversation with writer Susan Palmquist; she did a lovely job on this article. Thanks so much to all the Co-op members who support Alemar Cheese!

http://www.themix.coop/?q=node/789

Ruminations

2010-10-20T12:47:00.000-07:00

Oh, come on, you've got to let me get away with it, just this once.

I've been a wayward blogger for quite a while now. I've meant to post an item any number of times, but something consequential or otherwise seemed to pop in my head and there it went.

Also, I've come to the conclusion that it's much easier to write about the beginning of a venture than the early-middle part. In the beginning, there is so much more drama, so many more highs and lows.

But press on we must. There have been lots of great experiences and meaningful observations over the past few months, so in no order, here are a few:

--We have wrapped up our farmers' market season in Minneapolis. The shear number and remarkable diversity of people passing by was always interesting, occasionally hilarious, and, a few times, scary. Sampling and selling directly to the public was worthwhile economically and spiritually, and we look forward to getting back out there when the snow melts in 2011. Alex was a stalwart employee, and Mari pitched in a few times, too, when she could afford a day away from swimming. This allowed me to dash out deliveries during the mid-afternoon lull, saving Alemar Cheese time and money. Some mornings before the market I'd feel a bit listless and perhaps grumble a discouraging word, but without fail I felt energized and enthusiastic by the time we were packing up for the day. We are planning to add a Saturday market next summer: stay tuned.

--The Holidays are just around the corner, and I'm ramping up production to meet expected demand. Additionally, "demo season" has officially begun, and save a rare weekend or two, we'll be out sampling and spreading the good word until Christmas. Recently we've been at Valley Natural Foods in Burnsville, Surdyk's Cheese Shop, Kowalski's Grand Avenue, Mississippi Markets and Grass Roots Gourmet. Look for us at the Grand Opening of the new Linden Hills Co-op (a gorgeous new store) from 3-5 p.m. this Saturday. I'll try to do a better job of announcing our schedule over the coming months.

--Why does it take ten compliments to wash away one criticism? Actually, I'm getting better at dealing with this. My most recent rejoinders to the thankfully rare soul who says she isn't wild about Bent River: "I guess that's why they make a thousand kinds of cheese.", or "I still love you anyway.".

--Lucille's Kitchen Garden Preserves from St. Paul is my new favorite topping for Bent River. The Raspberry Pepper jam, with Bent River on crusty baguette tastes so good. Lots of flavors and textures going on, all of it good.

That's it for now. Thanks for playing along, and I hope our paths cross soon.

Tour de Farm

2010-08-17T13:43:00.000-07:00

Dinner at Cedar Summit with Tour de Farm was perhaps my favorite meal of 2010. Two different ages of Bent River were served with a house-made cracker and rhubarb preserves. Check out a video of the event (thanks to Cedar Summit Farm for putting it together!)...

http://www.cedarsummit.com/tour-de-farm-2010/

'Tis the Season for Camembert Cheese - Dara & Co. - July 2010 - Minnesota

2010-08-17T13:40:00.000-07:00

A nice post from Minnesota Monthly blogger and "follower" Reetsyburger (great name!).

'Tis the Season for Camembert Cheese - Dara & Co. - July 2010 - Minnesota

A Photographer Visits

2010-07-19T12:09:00.000-07:00

Stephen Haynes emailed me some time ago, mentioned he was a fan, and wanted to know if he could capture a day in the life of a cheesemaker. Besides being a very talented guy, he was a pleasure to get to know. Click on the link to the right to see his photos.

Nicollet Mall Farmers Market

2010-06-25T09:42:00.000-07:00

When I first hatched the idea to start an artisan cheese business, one of my first visions was the three of us, Alex, Mari and I, sampling and selling our cheese at a farmers market.

Yesterday that vision became a reality, and it lived up to all of my wishes and expectations. We served many hundred samples and sold a bunch of cheese. Since my plans to secure a shade tent went south, we also got a bit of a sunburn.

With the girls at the stand, I was able to stroll around a bit. Almost twenty years ago, I worked downtown, literally a stone's throw from our location. It felt odd to think about my path from there to here, but my overwhelming emotion was gratitude. I'm doing something I love with help from my two favorite people.

We grabbed dinner before heading back to Mankato. What a great feeling to just sit and share memories after a hard day's work. Thanks, daughters; you made your old man proud.

Farmers Market

2010-06-23T10:38:00.001-07:00

Starting tomorrow, we will be at the Minneapolis Farmers Market on Nicollet Mall most Thursdays. Alex and Mari are joining me for the maiden voyage. If you are anywhere nearby, please stop by for a free sample!

Kowalski's Does Mankato

2010-06-11T06:07:00.001-07:00

Six intrepid cheesefolk from Kowalski's Markets made the trip down from the Cities to tour our plant and soak up the culinary culture of Mankato. After lunch at the famous (or infamous) Wagon Wheel, they stopped in for a few hours to watch the cheesemaking process and pepper me with hundreds of questions. They shot a number of pictures for a small feature in next month's Kowalski's Magazine.

Pictured are Jody (Hennepin), Scott (Woodbury), Jill (Head Honcho), Kylene (Grand), Bode (Eagan), and Bruce (Eden Prairie).

What a joy it was to have such a knowledgeable and enthusiastic group. Even after the extended conversation, I noted nary a glazed eye; I think they were even a little sad to go.

So, thank you all for braving Highway 169 and taking a day to visit. I hope it won't be the last time.

Online Orders

2010-06-05T09:24:00.001-07:00

Last night, after a full day of deliveries in the Cities and a sample session at Surdyk's (as always, a great time), I returned back to the "plant" to offload the now empty coolers and tend to the cheese.

Finished with my duties, I booted up my laptop and checked my email. Lo and behold, our first ever online order from a "stranger" appeared. Donald Salamone of Philadelphia, PA, you are the first of, I hope, many. Your cheese will be shipped overnight on Monday--thanks so much for finding and taking a chance on us!

Props to my lifelong friend, Grant Keeney, for order number one. I sort of, well, strong-armed him to buy, to ensure the site actually worked. Karma, Grant, Karma. A close second place goes to Greg Herring, friend and partner who needed some Bent River for his annual Memorial Day gathering. He assures me it was a hit.

For those of you interested in ordering, keep in mind the shipping cost (thirty-two dollars) is the same whether you order the minimum of two wheels to the maximum six. It's a little steep, I know, but the cheese is well-packed in an insulated box and overnighted when the warm months are with us.

Again, thanks so much Donald; I hope to get a review back when you have a chance!

Catching Up

2010-05-27T12:06:00.000-07:00

Memorial Day weekend is upon us, the start of a new summer dawns.

The past few months have passed by quickly but not uneventfully. In March, Cedar Summit had a bumper crop of calves, and I had a "milk drought" as a result. Since then, I've been making more cheese than ever, as demand and new accounts continue to build (thank you). We were able to purchase a new, gleaming aging room that excites me to the point of occasional concern. And, after more thought than probably necessary, Alemar Cheese has found a farmers market home, to be announced soon. I'll expound on these items and more in the coming weeks--promise.

The website is operational and for those of you outside of our limited retail circle, you can now order our cheese online.

Have a great holiday weekend, and I'll be back soon!

Website

2010-05-17T10:59:00.000-07:00

It appears our website, alemarcheese.com has been offline for a week or so. I'll get it back online soon...and in short order, you'll also be able to buy cheese through the website.

I've been a lazy blogger. Lots of things to post on from the past month-and-a-half, and I'll catch you up in the NEAR future. Thanks, and have a great day.

Saturdays in The Cities

2010-03-24T03:29:00.000-07:00

Starting a few weeks ago, I began a string of Saturday demonstration visits. This photo shows Mari at Lund's on Ford Parkway. That's Kathy the cheese specialist in the background, who was kind enough to share her department with us. Of my two daughters, Mari is clearly the more demure, but she really had fun passing out samples and even suggested I go for a walk so she could solo for a while. Thanks and well done, kid.

Which spurs me to mention our introduction to the Lund's/Byerly's Markets. Besides Ford Parkway, you can also find Bent River at the Byerly's in Edina and St. Louis Park, where I'll be on April 3rd and 17th respectively. We're thrilled to be a partner with this storied retailer.

This Saturday I'll be at the Kowalski's Market on Hennepin from 12-2, and the Woodbury store from 2:30-4:30. Same times, different stores on April 10th: Eagan and Eden Prairie.

Then, you'll find me at the Seward Co-op April 24th from 11-2, and, for the finale, Linden Hills Co-op May 2nd from 11-3.

Sure, it's work, but I never, ever feel anything but satisfaction and gratitude after a demonstration day. We make new friends, sell some cheese, and build a stronger bond with our cheese professionals. And, when I'm lucky enough to have a daughter or two in tow, it makes the day a fond memory that lasts and lasts.

A Minnesota-Wisconsin Beer and Cheese Pairing

2010-03-02T06:49:00.000-08:00

What a cool post. I'll be picking up a six-pack of Liftbridge Farm Girl this Friday after I'm done sampling at Surdyk's (I'll be there from four-to-seven); stop by and say "hi"...

A Minnesota-Wisconsin Beer and Cheese Pairing

Grape Stroll and a Few Mentions

2010-02-15T07:18:00.000-08:00

This past Friday evening, I had the pleasure of working the Minnesota Grape Growers Association Wine Stroll in Bloomington. In all, 28 wineries were represented. It's heartening to see such amazing growth in an "industry" so similar to artisan cheesemaking; perhaps there will be a Minnesota cheese stroll one day.

The night flew by. With an attendance of over 500, I was on my toes all night passing out samples and discussing the finer points of Bent River with the knowledgeable crowd. I hope I'm invited back next year.

And, a couple of nice mentions in the blogosphere:

http://heavytable.com/crispin-and-cheese-anatomy-of-a-pairing/

Vicki is a great patron and huge fan of local cheese. Get yourself to Grass Roots Gourmet as soon as you can--she knows her stuff and has an amazing gift for food and drink pairings, as this post demonstrates. Also, if you are an aficionado of things epicurean and live anywhere near the Twin Cities, you should be reading The Heavy Table. Also:

http://www.vegetarianperspective.wordpress.com/

I ran into Sarah and her husband this Saturday at the Linden Hills Co-op. She tells the rest of the story...

Le Cordon Bleu

2010-02-04T11:06:00.000-08:00

This Monday I was invited to speak at Le Cordon Bleu Culinary School in the Twin Cities. Fred Stenborg, one of the instructors, is a friend of the Minar's. On a visit to Cedar Summit, he asked Dave and Florence if they'd like to speak to his students, and perhaps "that fledgling cheesemaker" could come along too.

Alex and Mari had the day off, so they consented, with a couple of gentle nudges, to come along for the day.

Fred met us at the school and showed us around a bit. We really enjoyed seeing the "classrooms" devoted to baking and various forms of cookery. From what I understand, the curriculum is 15 months long, followed by a six-month "externship" at a restaurant.

At 10, Dave and Florence took the floor and spoke about Cedar Summit Farm. I've gone on and on about what an amazing operation they run, but it never gets old for me. They emanate integrity and passion, and the students of Le Cordon Bleu, along with Alex and Mari (my master plan revealed), had the chance to hear first-hand from two pioneers of Minnesota sustainable and organic farming. A tough act to follow.

I walked the students through a day in the life of a cheesemaker. They were respectful and attentive throughout, and, after I'd completed my talk we took questions for a bit. The Minar's brought along some cream (used by many of the finest kitchens in Mpls./St. Paul) and milk to be sampled alongside my cheese. Lots of nodding heads and positive comments amongst the aspiring cooks made the trip worthwhile.

January Funk

2010-01-30T13:51:00.000-08:00

I'm kind of cheating here, because it's February 4th, though the post date says otherwise. I started an entry the other day, but after revisiting it now, decided to start from scratch. To the untrained eye it will appear I at least posted once during this long, cold, abominable month.

This is my 20th winter in Minnesota. I'd like to say I'm used to it by now. There are a number of things I like about a "real" winter: stark, spectacular scenery, bundling up with impunity before bed, and walking in not-too-frigid weather, when the break presents, come immediately to mind.

I'm fond of saying I don't mind the cold, just the duration, but even that is a bit disingenuous. Because, every January, somewhere during the month, I fall into a bit of a funk.

Perhaps it's the maximum 31 days. Or that there is almost always a three or four (or eight) day stretch where the temperature never rises above zero. It might be post-holiday blues.

Regardless, it happens. I know when it hits I'll have to summon the will locked deep inside to turn perpendicular, post alarm, and square my feet to the floor. I know I will laugh with 35% less gusto at something amusing. I know I will think to myself more than once a day "...remind me why I moved here in the first place".

I am allowed to admit these feelings, because even though I've weathered 20 winters, I'm still a transplant, and, sorry, I "just don't get it", according to the desperately, suspiciously upbeat natives.

Fortunately, it doesn't last too long, maybe a week. Then I start thinking optimistic thoughts, like "today has four minutes more daylight than yesterday", and I begin to think about springtime, and that first, glorious day when I can unroll the car window and breath a deep breath of not-frigid air, and I'll begin the slow, protracted process of forgetting the funk, so I can unwittingly prepare for winter number 21.

Demo Days and New Places to Find Us

2009-12-16T08:17:00.000-08:00

After the heavy dose of production days in November, this month is weighted mostly toward affinage (taking care of the cheese as it ripens) and marketing.

Each Friday and Saturday of December I've been out to one of our vendors for demonstrations, wrapping up this weekend. First was Surdyk's and the Saint Peter Co-op, and last weekend was The Wedge and Lakewinds in Chanhassen and Minnetonka. This Friday I'll be at the Linden Hills Co-op from three-to-six, and Seward Co-op Saturday from 11-2.

I really relish the demo sessions. First, I get immediate feedback from a large cross-section of tasters, and, almost as important, I'm able to visit with the cheesemongers who have had a huge bearing on our success. I am so impressed with the passion and dedication of those attracted to selling fine cheese.

Without a doubt, my fondest and longest-lived remembrances of this month's sampling will surely be the days when Alex joined me. The past two Saturdays, she volunteered to come along and help. A self-described "drama nerd", it took her all of a minute to commit our spiel to memory.

On both days, I would venture off to explore the store from time to time, and, invariably, upon my return, our cheese for sale was a piece or two lighter. Looks like the girl's a natural.

In addition to Lakewinds, you can also now find Bent River in Le Sueur at the Friendly Confines Cheese Shoppe, at Harbo Cider between Mankato and Lake Crystal (next to Welsh Heritage Farms), and coming soon to Cub Foods West, right here in Mankato. In fact, I've just confirmed a sampling session there Thursday the 24th from one-to-three.

Also, Birchwood Cafe in the Seward neighborhood of Minneapolis has added our cheese to their rotational menu. I've not yet eaten there, but the menu, which changes weekly, looks fantastic.

Chapter Two: Snow Day

2009-12-09T15:07:00.000-08:00

They cancelled school today, which means, in Minnesota, there is serious weather.

I was planning to go to the dairy this morning. Normally, I like to test the nasty conditions, and press on regardless, but I woke from a startling dream of the truck getting blown off the road. I'm not much for superstition, but with the winds blowing as hard as they were, and never having tested the aerodynamic limits of "ol' red", I decided to pack it in. I just received more cheese molds, so I can make a "monster" batch on Monday to catch up.

Now, back to a cheesemaker's day in the life.

Once I'm loaded with milk, it's a ginger bit of driving back to the plant. We have a garage attached to the building, so I back in close to the door and set up the pump to drain the milk into the cheese vat. The vat holds 200 gallons of milk, and I've never had it more than one-half full. Monday will be a three-quarters batch, and it will thrill me a bit to see the vat coming close to capacity.

I fire up the water heater that pumps hot water to the outer jackets of the vat for pasteurization. I seal the vat, hooking up the air space unit and thermometers that ensure proper procedure, and start the milk paddle that gently stirs the milk as it warms.

It takes a bit over an hour to get the temperature over 145 degrees. At this point, I hold the milk above 145 for a minimum of 30 minutes. I usually let it go five minutes over to be certain.

After pasteurization is complete, the cover comes off the vat and I get a free moisturizing facial from the steam. The milk is then cooled down to 88 degrees (with the aid of cold water now coursing through the vat jackets). We are now ready for inoculation. I add a cocktail of cultures and enzymes that give the cheese its character, and slowly let the mixture ripen for an hour. Many, certainly the behemoth cheese operations, shorten or bypass this step, but I believe it allows everything to marry well, and adds depth to the flavor.

After ripening, the rennet is introduced. Rennet is a strange and wonderful thing; it turns milk into cheese. Originally (and currently) found in the stomach lining of a calf, kid or lamb, it chemically alters the milk, allowing casein to bind together with the fat globules and render curd. After a time, which varies from batch to batch, the curd is "set", and fully separated from the whey. There are plants that can also achieve the renneting process, and the stuff I use is vegetarian. It has been concentrated down to a viscus brown liquid, and, try as I might, I haven't developed a liking for it's smell. I can't even begin to describe the aroma much less develop a fondness for it, but I'm working on it.

Once the curd has fully set, it's time to cut. My vat has a set of three knife attachments that cut the curd in a matter of minutes. I have to be careful not to overdo any of these steps where paddles or knives rotate in the vat: for whatever reason, it lulls me and I can get lost in time.

Once cut, the curd is allowed to rest for a few minutes. Then a gentle stirring takes place, followed by another rest. I then drain off about 10-15 percent of the whey.

Soft rind cheese like Camembert is made with block molds that have a series of small, uniform holes that allow the whey to drain off by gravity. I also set an extender mold on top of the block mold so there is enough curd to ensure a proper piece of cheese.

It takes twenty to thirty minutes of hard labor to scoop the curd and whey mixture from the vat into the molds. My tradition is to find a good playlist of music and go at it. Along with the physical exertion, I also have to pay attention to each mold to ensure as much uniformity as possible.

Once complete, clean-up begins. I should also mention that, though there is some down time during the ripening and rennet stages, there is always something to clean, test, or set up; time goes by quickly.

Cleaning and sterilization is as much a part of cheesemaking as any other component, and not to be trifled with. One missed step and you're headed full-steam for trouble of one sort or another, so it gets the attention it deserves.

After I've cleaned, it's home for dinner and a bit of a rest-up. Four to six hours later, I come back in to turn the cheese over. This keeps the moisture content of the cheese stable as it completes the draining phase. After a bit more cleaning, the cheese is covered and allowed to drain overnight in the warm make room.

I've glossed over the testing that must occur throughout the make process, but, at least for my cheese, the most important gauge is pH. I have a really handy pH meter that guides me throughout the make, and there is a window of target pH's that I need to hit to get everything right. In other words, the cheese will tell you when it's ready. Most days, it's ready around six the next morning.

I'm probably most alert and lucid in the early morning, so this stage is somehow comforting and peaceful for me. I demold the cheese from each block. Coarse sea salt is then applied by hand to each piece. Once salted, the cheese goes on to racks and heads for the aging room, a humid walk-in box set at 53 degrees, ideal for aging Camembert. The final clean up commences.

It's a full day from start-to-finish. As mentioned, I've done one back-to-back make, and I'll avoid that going forward wherever I can. When complete, I feel a palpable sense of having done something of worth, and a satisfying ache in my middle-aged bones. As I write this, I'm starting to feel a little cheated I didn't get to make cheese today, but I'll get over it. There will be plenty more chances ahead.

Up From the Depths: Chapter One

2009-12-01T21:22:00.000-08:00

What a month. My last post, over a month ago, ended, "Head down now, into 'holiday' mode", and that is precisely what occurred.

I made more cheese, by a fair margin, than I've ever made before. One week, to shoehorn family obligations into the mix, I made two large batches on subsequent days. I've promised somewhere along the way to explain a day-in-the-life of a cheesemaker, so here we go.

Almost to the minute, Jim and Kat are done milking at Cedar Summit at nine-thirty a.m. They have been hard at it since five at the latest, and I am in constant awe of their good nature each time I show up. They have always treated me with a small sense of bemusement and a large dose of tolerance, especially the first few visits when I appeared to be fighting a losing battle against the pump hoses.

I drop Alex and Mari off at school, and by the time I reach the "plant" (still seems silly to call my tiny space that), it is just before eight. I prep the place for the day ahead, load up the truck, and I'm off around eight-thirty. The farm is a bit over forty miles away, but I'm motoring in "ol' red", our 1987 Ford F250, not the swiftest of steeds. I generally listen to NPR on the radio from the one good speaker that drifts in and out. To date, I've made the trek 34 times, and I still get butterflies somewhere along the way, usually for no good reason. Do I have enough gas (the gauge is suspect)? Have I brought everything I need (forgot the dread pump hoses--game over, once)? Can I make my way through St. Peter and it's Byzantine detour system?

All in all, it's an enjoyable ride. I get to think a bit on the road--sometimes a good thought comes and I end up calling the office line to leave a message as not to forget.

Once I've reached the farm, I wind down the path to the milking barn, and I never fail to get that smile of the interloper who doesn't work on the farm, but loves the sights, sounds, and, yes, smells. Chickens on the loose. The lowing of the cows. The dogs who love me 'cause I inevitably spill enough milk for a snack. The undeniable, everpresent waft of cowshit.

I back the truck up to the barn, and begin getting the pump and hoses connected. Measuring the tank, noting carefully each notch on the bar that means anywhere from 15 to 25 pounds of milk (a gallon weighs generally 8.7 pounds, give-or-take for fat content). Once I've got it all measured and hooked up, the pumping begins. It takes around ten-to-fifteen minutes to get my fill, which means 600-1000 pounds of milk. On occasion, it should be noted, I lose track of something and end up with more milk than I'd bargained for. I try my best, but I'm easily distracted. Kat may be partially guilty, because often she'll get going on the most important thing ever, and I get sucked in. A few weeks ago, she bought her first house--you can't stop that story, can you?

Dave Minar as often as not, is somewhere in the vicinity, and he'll stop to say hi. At the risk of offending the current Minar progeny, I have always felt a certain parental bond with Dave and Florence, and I'm quite sure that this is not a unique occurrence. They have created, with their family and all the great people that contribute, a special place, a place of nurturing on several levels, though they'd probably never admit to it outright. But, from the day I sat at their kitchen table almost a year ago, I've had the sense that they were in my corner, provided I wasn't a half-assed pretender.

This is the first week where I have had enough free time to think about writing. I'm glad I've gotten something down, but we're far from the end of my cheesemaking story, and I hear the pillow calling. We'll pick up soon...

More Cheese & More Places to Find it

2009-10-26T11:59:00.000-07:00

From what I understand, the weeks between Thanksgiving and New Years Day will be our busiest time of the year, so I'm in the midst of ramping up production to meet demand.

And, speaking of demand, there are some new places to find our cheese.

Pairings Food and Wine in Minnetonka & Grass Roots Gourmet in Minneapolis are our newest vendors. Pairings is a beautiful space housing a cafe/market alongside a well-thought-out wine area. You'll find Grass Roots Gourmet in the Midtown Global Market--a place that has long been on my list to visit. Rows and rows of stores stocking items from around the world...now that I've seen it in person, I can't wait to go back for a few hours of strolling, tasting, and shopping. Vicki, the proprietor of Grass Roots, was a joy to meet and such an obviously dedicated proponent of local and sustainable food.

Also, Lucia's Restaurant and Cafe has started serving Bent River. Some posts back, you might recall Alemar Cheese was part of a lunch honoring Lucia. A few days later I received a lovely thank you note from Lucia, and she asked if she could carry our cheese. Of course we are honored to be a part of this great Minnesota institution!

Head down now, into "holiday" mode. Have a great week...

Crying Over Spilt Milk

2009-10-22T14:25:00.000-07:00

I did not really cry, except inside. But, I did spill a lot of milk: 100 gallons to be precise.

Yesterday started like any normal cheesemaking day; to the dairy and back, then pumping the milk into my vat. And then something abnormal happened.

I gently pasteurize my milk. By law, any cheese that goes to market before sixty days must be pasteurized. I use a "tankless" water heater to run very hot water through two "jackets" inside the vat, which brings the milk slowly to 145 degrees. Then the milk is held at this temperature for a minimum of 30 minutes. Viola, pasteurized milk.

The heater is a really cool machine. It heats water almost immediately to the desired temperature, and it is rigged up to recycle the water that flows through the vat. So, not only is it very energy efficient, it cuts down on water use.

Only, yesterday, I pressed the on button, and nothing happened. From my years in the baking business, I am used to equipment failure. I have also found that with the proper amount of determination and ingenuity, there is almost always a solution, a quick fix.

Almost always. I went through a routine of going through the troubleshooting guide in the equipment manual, then called in our electrician and ultimately, Jeremy, the plumber who installed the heater. We had power, and everything was operation except for the keypad.

Jeremy called technical support at the manufacturer, and after going through a set of instructions, was asked to take the keypad apart. As he did so, a few drops of water began to seep out. This, it turns out, is not normal.

What to do next? Tech man explained that you can bypass the display unit and keep the heater operational. Good news! I sealed the vat and began heating the milk. Jeremy left with my OK to order another display unit.

As I watched the vat, I could tell something was amiss. The milk was not heating as quickly as usual, and when I felt the intake water line, it was obvious that the water going in was not as hot as usual. So, I called back technical support, and learned that while it is possible to bypass the control unit as we had done, there is an internal wiring system that prevents the water from going above 140 degrees. It should come as no surprise that 140 degree water will not heat milk to 145 degrees.

I searched my mind for a solution. I called all the plumbing supply outfits within a 75 mile radius that might stock the part. I called a company in town that specializes in control units. I tried to tap my inner McGuyver, but nothing would come.

I obviously lost some money, but that was a minor irritant. It was truly heart-wrenching to drain the milk out of the vat. I had exhausted every option I could think of, and there was nothing I could do. I called my good friend Craig, and we had a laugh at the idea of me taking a bath in the vat. For the record, I did not take a bath in the vat.

All night last night, I had flashes of frustration welling up from inside. Where the hell had that water come from? Did I do everything I could? It was a pointless exercise, but knowing that made it no easier.

Jeremy came back today and installed the new control unit. He mounted it in a different spot, far from any source of water. Maybe I should get another unit for backup.

I hope writing this down will exorcise any lingering demons I may have, and, of course, this is a minor setback that will not affect much in the long run.

Mankato Free Press cover story

2009-10-18T15:59:00.000-07:00

We've been getting some attention lately, all of it welcomed. This article appeared in the Mankato Free Press today.

Here's some of the text - the full story about Alemar Cheese company in Mankato is here at the Mankato Free Press website.

Getting it right when making fresh cheese is a combination of art and science.

Keith Adams works with precision inside a small production facility in Mankato’s Old Town as he tries to perfect the Camembert-style soft cheese he began making last spring under the Bent River brand name.

He heats the organic milk to precise temperatures to pasteurize it, allows it to sit for the specified time to separate the curds and whey and reach the proper pH levels, and he moves quickly at the right moment to remove the blend from a large vat, using stainless steel pails, to pour it into round molds and begin the aging process.

“It took me a while to get the recipe and formula correct. It’s part of the journey, I guess, but it was frustrating,” Adams said.

His new venture, Alemar Cheese, is meeting with success where it counts — the cheese buyers and upper-end restaurants who are adding his cheese to their menus.
As co-owner of the former Bagel Bros. bagel shops, Adams’ new business brings him back to two things he desires: Being his own boss and working with food.
Alemar is a blend of the names of his teen daughters, Alex and Mari, and the Bent River brand of his first cheese is in reference to the famed bend in the Minnesota River at Mankato.

Camembert cheese is one of the most famous of French soft cheeses. The thick, gooey cheese is popular on bread and paired with fruit. While it needs to be refrigerated to be stored, it tastes best served at room temperature.

Adams made a about a dozen batches of cheese before he felt he got it right and began shopping samples around. St. Peter Food Co-op is so far the only area outlet for the Bent River cheese. He’s also selling it at several co-ops and some restaurants in the Twin Cities area.

Mike Phillips, chef/owner of The Craftsman restaurant in Minneapolis, sampled Bent River and added it to his cheese menu, which rotates between 15 and 20 cheeses during the year.

“It’s really good, but it’s also getting better all the time,” Phillips said. “Like anything with food or cheeses, results aren’t real quick. It takes some time to perfect it.”
Phillips said that while he gets cheeses from the vaunted cheese-making state of Wisconsin, Minnesota cheese production is growing. “There’s quite a bit in Minnesota. We’re seeing a good increase of really good, quality cheese.”

Adams gets organic milk — 1,000 gallons per batch, which makes about 130 pounds of cheese — from Cedar Summit Farm in New Prague.
The process of making and aging the cheese is four to five weeks. The fresh cheese has a shelf-life of up to a month after that.

Soft, fresh cheeses have a higher moisture content, while moisture is forced out of hard cheeses, giving them a long shelf life.

After the Bagel Bros. bagel shops Adams helped run closed in 2005, he worked in sales at Coughlan Publishing for three years, something he described as a good job, “But as far as gratification, it left me lacking. I had this feeling to do something I felt a passion for.

“I really enjoyed the food side of the (bagel) business and being my own boss came naturally to me.”

A California native, Adams considered wine making, something some of his friends there do. “But the startup cost to make wine in Minnesota is huge. I thought cheese making is something similar.”

He studied cheese-making intently and attended the American Cheese Society conference where he met a California cheese-maker who agreed to mentor him.

He drew up his business plan and began raising seed money last fall. He found a small building on North Riverfront Drive, a former Domino’s Pizza store, that had the infrastructure for food production. After renovations, he began producing his first cheeses in April.

“I think I broke even last week for the first time.”

For now, he wants to concentrate on producing good product for his current customers, but plans to add a new cheese variety each of the next four or five years.
Adams expects his cheese will be available at a Mankato outlet in the near future.

He will sell the cheese via his Web site — www.alemarcheese.com — in the future. The cheese retails for about $21 per pound.
Copyright © 1999-2008 cnhi, inc.

Alemar Cheese Write Up in Star Tribune

2009-10-07T19:39:00.000-07:00

Note: This is a guest post by Mike Nolan - a re-print from the Ask Better Questions Blog.

My friend Keith Adams started a small, organic artisan cheese company this year.

I remember the day he broke the news to my wife and I that he wanted to make cheese. It was over a glass of wine, in my kitchen, about a year ago. My first reaction? Well, as a guy who has been on the money side of many a start-up, I was less than optimistic. For about a minute.

It only took 60 seconds for me to see the passion.

He needed to be an artisan - he needed to have a passionate living.

He shared the elevator pitch - his market research - his plan to mentor with the best in the business - his plan on education, financing and marketing.

He shared his passion.

Today the Minnesota Star Tribune ran a glowing article about his cheese. And this was not the result of some big PR effort, but instead the writer found his cheese at a local co-op, and was hooked.

Here's an excerpt, and a link to the great story about Alemar Cheese Company's Bent River Cheese

Keith Adams is apparently unaware of F. Scott Fitzgerald's maxim that there are no second acts in American lives. A few years ago, the Mankato resident was co-owner of a small chain of bagel shops. Today he's one of the region's up-and-coming cheesemakers.

Although production only began in April, Adams' Camembert-style cheese, which he markets under the name Bent River, is causing something of a sensation among local cheeseheads. "I'm impressed," said Alex Roberts, chef/owner of Restaurant Alma in Minneapolis. "I've never encountered another local cheese like it, and I'm glad we're serving it. It has great character, and I'm interested in watching how it develops."

That makes two of us. This lusciously ripe and creamy cheese is an exceptional effort for a freshman cheesemaker ("Every time I get a compliment I sort of blush," Adams said). Adams is taking a hands-on approach to his new vocation, absorbing knowledge from mentors and learning through all kinds of good old-fashioned trial and error. "Let me put it this way," he said. "I'm currently on production No. 23. I think batch No. 12 was the first one to pass muster. It's a tricky cheese, so it's probably good that I didn't know that when I was starting out, because it would have been too daunting. Ignorance really is bliss."

Adams calls his enterprise the Alemar Cheese Co., an amalgam of his two teenage daughters' names, Alex and Mari. "Camembert-style" sounds glamorous, but Adams' work environment is about as far from the Normandy countryside as a cheesemaker can get. He labors inside a cinder block building in downtown Mankato, a former pizza production facility that's just a few steps from where the Minnesota River takes a pronounced turn, hence the name Bent River.

Milk comes courtesy of cows grazing at the Minar family's Cedar Summit Farm in New Prague, a gold standard among Minnesota farmstead dairies. "You can't make great cheese without great milk," said Adams. "Not that I claim to be a master cheesemaker by any stretch, but I'm bound and determined to get there. That's the equation of life, isn't it? Being happy, and doing something that you love."

RICK NELSON

Bent River cheese (about $21 per pound, www.alemarcheese.com) is available at Seward Co-op, Wedge Co-op, Eastside Co-op, Surdyk's and Premier Cheese Market in Minneapolis, Mississippi Market and Whole Foods in St. Paul, and Twin Cities-area Kowalski's Markets. It's also featured at the Craftsman, Restaurant Alma and Vincent in Minneapolis.

People's Choice and a Late Addition

2009-10-07T18:58:00.000-07:00

I found out on Monday that our cheese was voted the number one pairing with the St. John Reserve wine from Morgan Creek, site of the annual Great Grape Stomp. I'm sure being the most local of the region's cheesemakers present didn't hurt. What a nice honor from the good people of the St. Peter Co-op.

Also, I will be at Surdyk's this Friday from 4:30 to 7 p.m., sampling during their annual wine sale--they have a huge selection, and prices are never better.

Goings On

2009-10-03T08:46:00.000-07:00

I will be at the "Say Cheese" event at The Great Grape Stomp at Morgan Creek Vineyards in Cambria this afternoon. Not the greatest weather today, but a little wine might help.

Look for an article in the Minneapolis Star Tribune Taste section this Thursday.

On Friday, our cheese will be a part of an event honoring Lucia Watson of Lucia's in Minneapolis. The event is being held at Windows on Minnesota on the 50th floor of the IDS Tower.

Finally, I'll be sampling cheese this coming Saturday, October 10th at the Eastside Co-op on Central Avenue in Northeast Minneapolis.

Perhaps we'll cross paths somewhere along the way. Be sure to say hello if so.

Alemar Cheese on Cities 97

2009-09-24T06:40:00.000-07:00

Today Alemar's Bent River cheese was featured on Cities 97 Morning Show.

I'd like to thank BT and the rest of the morning show, and of course the "Cheese Goddess" Elle-Tee. It was great fun.

We've received a few great mentions recently...

First a surprise feature on KSTP's Twin Cities Live (about 3 minutes into the video);

Then, a great feature by fellow blogger and New Ulm Journal Food columnist Wendy Monro;

http://yovia.com/blogs/simplyfood/2009/09/22/alemar-cheese-company/

Also, we will be doing tastings at Surdyk's Friday night from 4-7, and on Saturday at Seward Co-op from 2:30-5:30--both are in Minneapolis...please stop by and say hello.

Twin Cities Live

2009-09-17T20:53:00.000-07:00

By complete surprise, Alemar's Bent River cheese was featured on Twin Cities Live today.

About 3:00 into the "Top Picks" section.

Rob & Chris

2009-09-15T22:13:00.001-07:00

I spent a memorable Saturday afternoon in the upper Napa Valley with my good friends, Chris Dearden and Rob Hunter. Due to occupational and familial duties, they were unable to make it to Stryker, so, with no small sense of satisfaction, I tooled off to St. Helena in the Stryker S-10 (feeling slightly cool because I might be mistaken for a local) to see my old buddies.

Chris met me at Benessere Vineyards, his home base. Just North of St. Helena, Benessere has the distinction of being one of the few wineries in the Valley that concentrates on Italian varietals. They make, by the estimation of more than a few critics, the finest Pinot Grigio in California. For me, and I think, Chris, their flagship stuff is the Sangiovese. They've been making it since 1995, and it has always been a favorite of mine: great fruit and a pronounced, peppery finish. We had a few minutes (I love when busy people make you feel like time is frozen, and there is nothing pressing), and had a chance to catch up. We made a quick tour of the grounds, tasted some incredible wine, laughed a lot, and then, sadly, Chris was corralled and off to a table of patrons demanding his attention. Chris also consults with a number of wineries and is a partner at Chanticleer Wines...look them up.

Rob Hunter has a reputation that precedes him, and I say that with no small amount of conviction. He helped make Merlot (pre-Sideways, and ridiculously maligned) a star at Markham, and, as Head Winemaker at Sterling, brought a flagging giant to new heights.

He now has his own label, Hunter III, and is also the winemaker at Bennett Lane in Calistoga. His dad, Bob, has a vineyard in Sonoma that produces primarily sparkling wine under the label--ready? Robert Hunter, which Rob oversees.

Does it seem like I have a bit of pride in my friends? Guilty, with cause.

Rob and his daughter Haley met me at the Silverado Brewing Company in St. Helena for a late lunch. I ordered a double order of the shell-on spicy shrimp appetizer, and the Hunter's had ribs. Note the absence of photos. We had, as usual, a great time catching up, and, as the proud father of two now-not-so-young ladies, admired Haley's manners and grace.

After a great Hunter hug, I made my way back to the Alexander Valley. To get there, you must log about a ten-mile drive through Knights Valley, the unspoiled gem of the wine country. Drive it whenever you can. You'll thank me later.

Back

2009-09-15T21:31:00.000-07:00

This is the view from Craig's deck looking West from Stryker Sonoma. The treeline in the mid-horizon is the Russian River, with the Coast Range in the background. One could get used to it.

What a great weekend. I ate amazingly well--highlights include dinner at Diavola (real Napolitano pizza from a wood-fired oven), lunch at Willi's in Healdsburg (outstanding seafood--tuna tartare, oysters, and an incredible piece of halibut), and a home cooked meal from the Colorado house guests next door (most notably, a sweet potato dish with habanero peppers--a sublime blend of sweet and spicy).

Naturally, there was an abundance of wine. Craig's colleagues, Tim Hardin, winemaker, and Jenn Berman, oenologist and assistant winemaker, were present when duty didn't call. I know it's work, especially now, with harvest in full effect, but, man, the geographic phenomenon that comprises the Northern California wine country is so spectacular, it makes one stop, and breathe, and for that moment, be grateful to be alive.

As for the cheese tasting, it turned out to be a wheel a night proposition. The good news was that each night, the cheese was well received, and consumed. Lots of compliments from folks who know food.

Buffy, Otis, Adrien, Graham, Bill, the two Michael's, Brian, Ashley, Kathleen, and I'm sure I'm leaving someone essential out--the Stryker family is a lovely group of people--thanks so much for your hospitality. If you are able, stop by Stryker. The wines are fantastic, the views breathtaking, and the people, wonderful. I dare you not to envy, but you'll let it go in a heartbeat, because good wins here.

Craig was the greatest host. When you have the sort of history we do, you pick up right where you left off, and with the benefit of age, the most major disagreement becomes such a minor pest, it falls away like an inconvenient piece of lint.

I'm going to finish here and go on to another post because I can't figure out how to post more than one picture at a time and not mess everything up...so next to:

California, Here I come.

2009-09-03T14:05:00.000-07:00

Due to my good fortune in the friend department, I'm on my way to Sonoma County.

Craig MacDonald, General Manager & Partner at Stryker Sonoma, made me an offer I couldn't refuse. Said offer entailed a free airplane ride and a bed for the weekend. And, let's not forget, the wine closet, a beautiful, double wide unit stocked with an exceptional array of bottles...this provided you're too lazy to walk down to the winery, which can happen after midnight.

Craig and I met in 9th grade, Fall of 1976. Let your mind go for a moment and think of two svelte young men with longish hair and a penchant for skateboarding. I know, it's preposterous. Here we are 30+ years later, considerably thicker in the middle, yet still thick as thieves.

I've shipped out a "flight" of three different cheeses (by production date), and we are going to do our best to find a suitable beverage. Chris Dearden and Rob Hunter (see late July post) have promised to show, so we won't be lacking for palates.

My Mankato family, otherwise known as the Nolan's, are watching over my cheese this weekend. Jules stopped by yesterday for a brief primer--she says the batches she shepherds over will be the best of all--and why should I doubt her?

Finally, a giant welcome to Greg Herring, my former college roommate and constant source of good will, to the small and decidedly exclusive gang of Alemar partners. My main goal, besides making a living, is to amass my dream board of directors, and I've pretty much done it. Except, of course, for me (see Marx, Groucho).

Time Flies

2009-08-26T06:55:00.000-07:00

With some degree of shock I look at this blog and realize it's been a month since I posted anything. Lots has happened, so I guess it's time to catch up.

Sales have continued to blossom. We are on the shelf at Surdyk's, The Wedge Co-op, Premier Cheese, The Craftsman and Restaurant Alma in Minneapolis. We are also available at the Cedar Summit Creamery, and if you have a chance to visit, it's worth the time to make your way to New Prague. The Minar's sell not only their amazing line of dairy offerings, beef and pork, but goods from other local producers as well. Sales continue to hum at the St. Peter Food Co-op, and we've just been invited to be a part of the "Say Cheese" event at the Annual Great Grape Stomp at Morgan Creek Vinyards in Cambria Saturday, October 3rd. The event draws in the neighborhood of 3,000 people, so it should be a great opportunity to spread the word.

I'll be delivering to the Seward and Eastside Co-ops this Friday, and will be visiting most of the other Co-ops in the Twin Cities that same day. I will also be at Surdyk's on Friday, September 25th from four-to-seven sampling as part of their annual cheese sale. 40 cheeses including ours will be 20% off for the duration of the sale, which runs from the 17th through the 26th.

Checks have started to trickle in from vendors, and I admit to a small sense of glee endorsing them and dropping them at the bank.

Perhaps the nicest part of this month has been a handful of emails from people I've never met, who have taken the time to let me know they are fans of Alemar Cheese. It's sometimes easy to think of myself as an island, but now I'm realizing I'm more like a tiny but growing tree with a few more branches sprouting each week. So much for the similes.

The cheesemaking process continues to be a great source of wonder and satisfaction. Besides becoming more proficient with each make, I'm really focusing on how the cheese ages. I'm trying to find the best techniques necessary to extend the life of the cheese for our vendors. This is primarily a question of when to move the cheese from our aging room to refrigeration, and with a bit of coaching and experimentation, I hope to have this nailed down soon.

Have a great day, and thanks for stopping by.

Phase Four

2009-07-24T21:38:00.000-07:00

The past few days have brought about, I think, the fourth stage of Alemar Cheese. Stage one was the idea that popped into my head in the last days of 2007, and began to increasingly occupy my thoughts, that it was time to strike out on my own again. If I haven't confessed it yet, I'll gladly do it now.

I have a number of friends in California who make wine for a living, notably Chris Dearden (an Alemar partner) from Benessere Vinyards, Craig MacDonald from Stryker Sonoma, and Rob Hunter of Bennett Lane & Hunter Three (Chris & Rob consult and are partners in too many ventures to name). My Dad, Bill, was the cross country coach at UC Davis of numerous winemakers, including Nils Venge, Mike McGrath, and Rob Davis, all of whom are now elder statesmen of California winemaking. I have had the pleasure of watching them all lead an enviable life of passion and, let's face it, sanguinity.

Though wine is a growth industry in Minnesota, and in fact, one of my investor partners, Kent Schwickert, is now the lead proprietor of Chankaska Creek Winery just outside of town, I felt like I had neither the resources nor training to pursue a life in wine. But what else could I do to feed my desire to live some sort of similar lifestyle?

Well, there is plenty of milk in Minnesota, and cheese has always been a comfort and inspiration. I will forever remember searching Amazon in the waning days of 2007, looking for a book that would educate and inspire. Enter "American Farmstead Cheese" by Paul Kindstedt. I read it, cover-to-cover, in a matter of days. Most of it was far too technical for my amateur mind, but it gave me hope that I might just be on the right path.

Opportunity, or desperation, or more to the point, both, came next. I left my comfortable sales job, with benefits and stability, for a start up job offering more upside and, at least the promise of autonomy. I'll save the gory details for later, but in short order, the new job evaporated.

On to phase two: plotting, planning, learning, and making connections--broaching the subject with longtime friends (the hands-down most excruciating part) of potential investment; writing a business plan, reading, taking a class, becoming somewhat knowledgeable.

Once funded, phase two continued. Ordering equipment, finding a space, and continuing my education proved a daunting yet heady challenge. You can't fail if you haven't done anything yet.

Now, after many months of putting things in place, I had to actually make cheese, phase three. The good news was that I truly enjoyed the routine and pace of what I was doing. Having observed my winemaking friends at work, I could see the similarities and pleasures of the labor. I slept better than I have in a long time after a hard day of cheesemaking. I have mentioned in previous posts my anxiety towards waiting for results. Five weeks? Unleash the hounds of neurosis. If they had tests for ADHD back in the day, I'm sure I'd be on some form of medication now.

Eventually, I found what I was looking for. The cheese was not only good, but by trial and error, consistent. I will always strive to get better, but I'd found a certain level of competence.

Which brings us to phase four. Mankato, mysteriously, has never been able to support a co-op for any duration. Our much smaller neighbor to the North, St. Peter, has had a thriving co-op for decades. Much credit goes to Margo, the driving force behind it.

On Wednesday, as I was headed to Cedar Summit for milk, I stopped off at the co-op and left a wheel of cheese. Having been in sales for much of my life, I know that you have to make the effort to secure a sale--the buyer has the leverage, and it's incumbent on the seller to ask for the order.

To this point, the only messages on our voice mail at work have been telemarket related. But, last afternoon, Jim, the cheese buyer at the co-op left me a message asking for a call back with the likelihood of a sale. I missed him, but tried him again early this morning. A short time later, Jim returned the call. He asked if I could bring over a dozen wheels when time permitted. I mentioned that I was headed to the Cities on sales calls and could drop them by in a few hours. A chorus of Angels might have sung; I was a bit distracted at the time.

It is vital to note that the St. Peter co-op was, in fact, Alemar Cheese's second sale. Tom Cook, now of Kansas City, has had a standing order for months now. Tom, your status as customer number one is secure.

I spent the rest of the day dropping samples off to cheese shops, the two Whole Foods Markets in Minneapolis/St. Paul, and a number of restaurants that focus on local and sustainable foods. To a person, they were gracious and welcoming. I took pictures, and will post them when someone shows me how.

I'm guessing phase five is the part where we go from spending money to making some. Profit is not a bad word. It's the only way a business survives.

In keeping, I hope, with a healthy dose of humility, remind me later to tell you the story of shipping cheese to my partners, friends and family out West. Like I said, I'll tell you later.

Batch #12

2009-07-17T12:32:00.000-07:00

Well, at least it appears that the waiting is over. And forgive my lack of posts, but anything prior to this would have been equal measures optimism and anxiety. Not pleasant reading.

This past Sunday, I had a half-size wheel of cheese, produced on June 17th, that had sufficiently ripened for tasting. At a small gathering of friends, I unwrapped the cheese and let them have at. One bite for me, and I knew it: this was right. I guess that will be the answer from now on--if it doesn't feel spot on, it probably isn't. My friends, some of whom are avowed non-connoisseurs, were very pleased with the taste. So the cheese was accessible, yet for me also held characteristics of depth. Hurray.

Additionally, I sent a number of batch samples to Margaret Morris, my equipment supplier at Glengarry Cheesemaking, an acknowledged guru of cheese and author of "The Cheesemaker's Manual". She singled out "batch 12" as the winner by a mile. Sweet confirmation.

Now batch 12 is resting in refrigeration, waiting to be shipped to my investor partners, advisers, family and friends. And I'll be spending a busy day in the Twin Cities dropping samples to every cheese shop that will let me in their door.

Lots and lots of work to do, but a corner may have been turned.

The waiting is the hardest part

2009-06-26T18:39:00.000-07:00

Tom Petty, I couldn't agree more. I know I've got a streak of impatience, so waiting and wondering how a batch will turn out has occasionally gotten the better of me. Things appear to be correct, but there are lots of variables that I have to track to know what, in retrospect, I've done right or wrong. The most important thing, and I try to focus on it as much as I can, is that my competence and understanding of the process improves daily. But, oy, the waiting...

Progress

2009-06-10T04:54:00.000-07:00

Things have been moving along in a generally positive way over the past few weeks. That's not to say that everything has gone perfectly.

I continue to love the work. My main concern right now is getting the make formula just right and consistent. Next, I'm focusing on finding a home for the cheese. The retailers I've spoken with have been terrific--I'd like to single out Claire Thomas at Surdyk's Cheese Shop in Minneapolis for her detailed tasting notes. This weekend I'm going up to visit Scott from Great Ciao, a local distributor of fine foods and a cheesemaker in his own right. He has a farm about an hour's drive from me--should be a fine time, and I'll be sure to post on how it goes.

Working alone, on balance, has been wonderful. I can tune the radio or Ipod to whatever suits my mood, and no one is there to distract me from whatever it is I'm doing. Still, there are moments when I feel an onset of cabin fever. Self-doubt can creep up on me, and I don't have a trusted ally to lean on. Here I fall back on the notion that this is a journey, a process, an adventure. And that works...most of the time.

Breaking Radio Silence

2009-05-25T12:06:00.000-07:00

Please forgive me for such a lengthy pause since my last post.

I've been on a fairly predictable schedule for the past month, and each week gets a little more manageable time wise. The joy in doing this for a living has not fallen off a bit.

As the cheese got closer to ripeness, however, the fear demons began to get the better of me. I did my best to keep expectations low, but with so much time and energy invested, naturally I wanted good results and acceptance.

I tasted the first batch by myself on Wednesday. I bought some crackers and a few granny smith apples, then climbed the stairs to my apartment with equal measures of excitement and dread. The moment of truth had arrived.

Only, in a way, it hadn't. The cheese, to me, tasted delicious. I knew the smell, texture and appearance were on, and the aftertaste lingered forever, another good sign. But my objectivity was completely suspect. You might as well have asked me if I think my daughters are beautiful. This brought on a flurry of anxiety. I called a few friends to "talk me down" (thanks, by the way, Mike, Bud & Art).

I couldn't stop thinking about the taste throughout Thursday. That night, I had more cheese, this time with a serviceable Merlot. Again, a pleasant experience. I found myself wanting more, which I took as a good sign, but, still the nerves jangled.

On Friday, I brought some cheese over to my friends Jules and Mike. Jules has a palate I trust, so on pins and needles I unwrapped a ripe round of Bent River.

She tasted carefully, and pronounced the cheese very good. This brought me relief and pleasure. I was ready for the next step, having a professional cheese buyer sample my wares.

So, on Saturday, I herded Alex and Mari into the car with a cooler full of cheese, Minneapolis bound. We visited Surdyck's and Premier Cheese. Ken Liss, the proprietor of Premier wasted no time cutting into a round. He deliberated for what seemed an hour before pronouncing the cheese "fresh and good". He was enthusiastic enough to invite me up for a cheesemaker event sometime in the future. The girls and I left the shop heady and full of smiles. We celebrated with a nice lunch across the street at the Edina Grill, basking in the sun on more than one level.

The final hurrah came this morning as I stopped at Cedar Summit to pick up milk for todays make. I sauntered up to the Minar's door, and Florence met me before I had a chance to knock. I passed over a few rounds of cheese and asked for her feedback when she had a chance. She mentioned that a friend from Italy and a chef were over, and they were excited to try the cheese. Gulp.

As I was pumping the milk into my vat, Dave came out of nowhere with a grin, punched me in the shoulder and said "You hit it!"; he had some of the cheese sliced up and passed it out to Cat and Jim, his co-workers. He said everyone in the house loved the cheese. I told him "You can't make great cheese without great milk", and we nodded one another a silent congratulation.

Fittingly, back to earth: after pumping the milk into the my vat and starting the pasteurization process, I went outside to clean the truck and locked myself out of the building. Landlord can't find his key. It's Memorial Day, no locksmith will pick up the phone. Heart racing.

It's startling what a committed man with a hammer can do to a doorknob.

Let's face it, I'm tired.

2009-05-02T00:01:00.000-07:00

Cribbed from Mel Brooks, and delivered by Lily Von Stupp (Madeline Kahn) in Blazing Saddles, "Let's face it, I'm tired". According to Lily, "everything below the waist is kaput". I'm simpatico, but everything below the neck is kaput. This is a good thing because I'm a chubby man, so all the exercise I'm forced to do is one step closer to getting back to "fighting weight". I have nicks and cuts all over my hands, and my entire body aches. What a great way to get back in shape, doing something I love and would do for free. There is sore for the wrong reasons and sore for the right, and I'm happy to report this is all right. G'night...

Yes.

2009-04-27T20:15:00.000-07:00

There is actual cheese at Alemar Cheese. My make today went really well. Even though it was a thirteen hour day, I felt energized throughout, especially once the cheese made it into the molds. I plan to post a full description of the cheesemaking process, but not tonight. After I finished cleaning up, I spent a few moments just staring at the end result of something I've been working towards for almost a year. Cheese is not the most attractive looking stuff right out of the vat, but you coulda fooled me. It was beautiful.

There is still no guarantee that the cheese will be great, but so far I'm confident. For a long time now, people will ask what I'm up to, and I'll launch into a lengthy bit about how I'm starting this cheese business and so on. Tomorrow, if anyone asks what I do, I'll simply look them dead in the eye and say "I'm a cheesemaker". Have a great night...

Missed it by that much...

2009-04-22T19:40:00.001-07:00

This will be short and sweet. I was almost through the cheesemaking process when I committed a rookie error. The cheese could have been saved, but it had no chance to be great, so I pulled the plug. It's almost 10 p.m. and I'm just finished with clean up. I'm tired and a bit dejected, though not as much as I would have expected. I know what I did wrong and it will be corrected, so life goes on. Next make: Monday the 27th.

Showtime

2009-04-22T05:16:00.000-07:00

Today is the first day of production. I'll post some thoughts afterward. Wish me luck...

Cheese Trier?

2009-04-04T06:12:00.000-07:00

Because I make soft cheese, I don't need to have a cheese trier on hand. What is a cheese trier?

A cheese trier is a tool for, well, trying cheese. It kind of resembles an old school corkscrew, but instead of an auger on the end, a long, tapering cylindrical knife takes its place. This allows you to burrow deep into a large wheel of cheese leaving a small hole. Kind of like drilling a core sample, it provides you with a cross section of the wheel, gauging its maturation and any imperfections. It's a very valuable tool for most cheesemakers, and, like most tools, a clever device well suited to its task.

My problem lies with the name. In winemaking, samples are extracted from the aging barrels with a "thief", a large glass cousin of the turkey baster. Thief--now that has a ring to it. It implies mischief, sexiness and intrigue. "Trier"? Perhaps the word rolls off the tongue beautifully in French. But, beyond the goofy sound of the word, it just seems like the antithesis of elegance; utilitarian and drab.

I'm going to work on this. You're welcome to join.

Mensch Central

2009-04-01T15:18:00.001-07:00

This business would not exist without a small circle of friends who are taking a chance on me.

I'm blessed to have a number of exceptional friends, and short of my immediate family, they mean the world to me. Money and friends can be an explosive combination, but we are all at the age, I think, where whatever the outcome, our bonds will remain intact. Let it be said that I have every intent to make this work and provide a nice return, but every new venture starts out with optimism.

So, a brief, but exponentially sincere thanks, to my friends and partners Mike, Marty, Chris, Tim, Bruce & Dean.

Stalking the Unsuspecting Mentor

2009-03-10T10:29:00.001-07:00

When I made the decision to really commit to Alemar Cheese, I knew I was going to need someone in the business to call on for guidance and knowledge. I knew I wanted to make soft ripened cheeses. I had already tried a number of varieties, both domestic and imported, and the maker I kept returning to was Cowgirl Creamery.

Cowgirl was founded in 1997 by Peggy Smith and Sue Conley. They initially made fresh cheese exclusively, and, after getting that down, focused on soft ripened. Their first cheese, Mt. Tam, was an immediate hit, and since that time they've developed a number of additional varieties. Their cheeses have won a plethora of awards, and Cowgirl grew as the accolades mounted. You can find them at www.cowgirlcreamery.com. They also stock an impressive array of other artisan cheeses, primarily American. Besides the obvious fact that they were running a profitable operation, I just got a sense from reading up on the company that they were my kind of people, and as I did further research that became more and more apparent.

Early last Summer I sent an email to Peggy and Sue. With the success they've achieved, I was certainly one of many seeking an audience. A week or so later, Sue replied. She said I was welcome to come out and visit, and mentioned that she would be in Chicago for the American Cheese Society conference in late July. I was already planning to attend, but now it was set in stone: my main goal for the conference would be to meet Sue and find out if I had a chance to spend some time under her wing.

I found her late one afternoon at a day end cheese tasting. My nerves were jumping as I bided my time, waiting to introduce myself. She seemed to know everyone, so each time she left a conversation, she'd turn and start another. Ultimately, she broke free for a moment and I pounced. I'm sure an observer might describe my move as more of a sidle, but I assure you, it was definitely a pounce.

I said hello and she knew immediately who I was. We small talked a bit, and I mentioned that I had a trip planned to California in a few weeks. Sue said she would be happy to spend a morning with me touring both of Cowgirl's production facilities.

Sue possesses a great sense of calm. I have no idea if she dabbles in zen, but it wouldn't surprise me. She exudes joy and natural curiosity, and I felt like I'd known her a long time.

In early August, I made the drive to Cowgirl's original site in Pt. Reyes Station, a rustic village in rural Marin County. I could smell the sea as I walked from the car to the refurbished barn that houses Cowgirl. Sue arranged for me to take a tour of the facilities with an assistant cheesemaker. He went through their process of cheesemaking, and it felt good, sort of conspiratorial, to be "talking the talk" with a real cheesemaker. As the morning unfolded, Cowgirl opened for business, and several visitors began to turn up. There is a lovely deli on site, and a crowd began to form, picking out provisions and wine for picnicking later. The entire place has a great vibe--I hope you'll get the chance to visit, it's more than worth the drive.

Next, I drove to Petaluma where the new, larger production site is located. Sue met me with a kind smile and suggested a tour. The facility is much larger, yet the feel is still very artisan. I had a chance to walk through their aging/holding rooms, and the aroma left me heady. Talking with an icon of the industry certainly contributed to the feeling. We walked past the two giant vats (keep in mind that "giant" in the artisan circles still falls under the toy category of the behemouth cheese producers) as Cowgirl's cheesemakers went about the business of filling molds full of freshly cut curds.

I had a chance to meet a bunch of folks at Cowgirl, and to a person they seemed genuinely happy at work. What a wonderful thing to have created, a business teeming with fulfillment and purpose. As Sue walked me to my car, I popped the question, straight out: "Will you be my mentor?", I asked. She smiled, and said yes. I tried my best to calmly accept her reply, but I'm sure she knew how much it pleased me. Just a few minutes prior to that, after I'd told her my story, she looked at me calmly and said "You can do this." Those words will be forever etched in my memory, and I thank Sue with all my heart for her kindness and generosity.

Sue and I don't talk all that often--She's amazingly busy, and I try not to trouble her with things I can figure out on my own. But, whenever I've needed her time and counsel, she's been there.

Animal Spirits

2009-02-27T13:14:00.000-08:00

As I get closer and closer to getting Alemar Cheese off the ground, I'm reminded why everyone isn't in business for themselves. Each day there are minor victories and unexpected setbacks. Emotions peak and wane by the hour. Starting a business, let alone succeeding for any length of time, demands hard work, some smarts, and a healthy dose of luck.

John Maynard Keynes, the noted economist, coined the term "Animal Spirits" to describe the confidence and naive optimism of the entrepreneur. It's a bit of a strange name, but I understand it: where does one find the will to take an idea and turn it into a viable business? Why take the risk?

Something in the human condition has propelled us to continuously improve our circumstances. While some might argue this may turn out to be our ultimate undoing, there are at anytime millions of us striving to figure out a way to do something better. It's hardwired into our brains, like it or not.

I'm not curing cancer or solving world hunger, though I'm deeply grateful that there are those on this planet who try. I'm just doing the thing that, for whatever reason, I'm driven to do. When I experience a sharp feeling of self-doubt, I try my best to breath and remember all the things I'm fortunate to have. Then I muster the Animal Spirits inside, and carry on.

Coffee with Flo and Dave

2009-01-10T05:51:00.000-08:00

A cheesemaker is only as good as his or her milk. Minnesota, which has a significant dairy presence, makes the job of sourcing milk a bit easier. However, once you factor in a desire for organic milk and something local, your field becomes a great deal smaller. As I began putting a business plan together, I found a number of sources listing organic dairies in my area. After a bit of rooting around, and thanks especially to Jean, formerly of Pastureland Co-op, I settled on Cedar Summit Farms in New Prague as my first choice.

Cedar Summit's proprietors, David and Florence Minar, made the commitment to go organic in 1994. The farm has been in Dave's family since 1926, and the next generation of Minars are actively involved in the business. Their website, http://www.cedarsummit.com/, tells much more of the story.

My first contact was with Mike, Dave and Flo's son. I caught him by phone the first time I tried, which was fortunate, because the guy is busy. He runs the creamery right alongside the farm. Cedar Summit began their own production facility for milk, cream and ice cream in 2002. They have gained a terrific reputation for quality. Mike was polite, but a little guarded. I got the sense that the best chance I had to do business with them was to meet face-to-face. We arranged a time, and I stopped in the next week. Mike looked like he sounded on the phone: serious and no nonsense. He had a firm handshake, and was obviously proud of the operation as he described it. I told him a bit about my background and plans, and he said he'd discuss the matter with his family. I left the meeting hopeful, but acutely aware that I'd better have a plan B, and C for that matter.

I kept in touch via email, and left Mike a few messages. I didn't want to appear pushy, but I did want to let him know Cedar Summit was my first choice, and that I would be promoting their farm by including the milk source on all our labels. A bit later, I received a more encouraging email. Ultimately, Mike gave me his folks' number, and I called Dave to arrange a meeting. We had a brief but pleasant conversation, and set a date a few days before New Years.

When I arrived at the house, Flo met me at the door, with Dave right behind. I brought a gift, a nice bottle of Champagne to ring in 2009. I was a bit nervous as I entered their home. They offered me a cup of coffee and we sat at their kitchen table. We talked a bit about my plans, and they were obviously curious as to why I'd chosen them. I told them that, from everything I could gather, they were the best organic dairy in South Central Minnesota (one could argue the best in the State), and that without the best milk, you can't make the best cheese.

I love coffee; more specifically, I love coffee with lots of milk. After a few minutes of small talk, Dave poured the coffee and added a generous dollop of 2% Cedar Summit milk at my behest. It was delicious and soothing; just the right thing to ease my nerves. We continued our discussion, and in the end, had an informal agreement to work together.

Driving away, I felt a strong sense of encouragement about my project. My "quest" to make great cheese had taken a big leap forward.

American Cheese Society Conference

2008-12-15T12:55:00.000-08:00

This past July, I traveled down to Chicago for the annual ACS conference. At the time, I had mentally committed to a new life in cheesemaking, but still couldn't shake the lingering notion that perhaps I was an impostor, and didn't belong.

I made the trip with good friend John Weir and his daughter Emma. John has a brother in Chicago, and generously allowed me to tag along. Mankato is a seven hour drive from Chicago, give or take, so we had time to play a few travel games. Emma stumped the old guys with a spirited version of "guess the artist" from her iPod. It was determined that we were lame.

We arrived in Winnetka, a tony northern suburb of Chicago, shortly before dusk. John's brother, Nick, and sister-in-law Nora, welcomed us to their gorgeous home; a small dinner party had been arranged. Nora, it turned out, was a serious cook. We had a delicious lobster salad with a couple of great french white wines. Before dessert, she brought out a very impressive cheese platter, and the guests began to pepper me with questions. Let the unveiling begin! I did my best, but had the good sense to admit when I was out of my depth. All in all, the night was quite fine: kind, bright hosts and guests, outstanding food and wine, and a calm, warm summer evening.

The next morning, I woke early and slipped out of the house to catch a train into the city. I love big cities, and Chicago is one my favorites. As the train approached the terminal, I felt a great sense of excitement, mixed with that slight gnaw of trepidation. I was finally going to be amongst the finest artisan cheesemakers, critics and aficionados in the country...and what right did I have to join them? Only one way to know.

The conference was at the downtown Hilton. I registered and made my way to the reception area. Everyone seemed friendly enough, though there was a hint of belonging amongst the veterans. I did my best to look secure.

The program was a mixture of large communal and small elective sessions. For the most part, I found myself so immersed in the subjects of discussion I lost track of my self-consciousness. The language was often foreign, but I knew enough to follow along and pick up some useful things. At one session, I sat next to Laurie from Prairie Fruits Farm in Illinois, a farmstead goat cheesemaker; she was very kind and willing to share her thoughts.

There were a few moments where I was close to a "rock star" of the industry--Ari Weinzweig from Zingerman's Deli, Steve Jenkins of Fairway Foods, and Sue Conley and Peggy Smith of Cowgirl Creamery come first to mind--where I became, I'm almost certain, visibly nervous and suspicious-looking. As a reader, you might be thinking, "Good lord, you're at a cheese conference, not robbing a bank!", and you'd be right. So we move on...

Speaking of Sue Conley, my main goal during the conference was to meet her. We had traded a few emails, and she'd asked me to introduce myself. Sue started Cowgirl Creamery (With Peggy Smith) in the nineties, and their cheese has won a bazillion awards. I love their cheese, and from what I could glean from research, their business philosophy and practices. I found an opportune time to approach her at the evening-ending reception. Sue was humble and kind, and very encouraging. She agreed to spend time with me at her facilities the following month. Sue's acceptance, along with a few glasses of wine and a bunch of great cheese, left me feeling a bit heady as I ventured a few blocks north to my resting place, a large youth hostel.

Youth hostel? Well, yes. In an effort to conserve funds, I decided I could rough it a few nights in a communal environment. I'd stayed at a number of hostels back in the day, and had always had a reasonable experience. And this hostel was just what you might expect: a pretty barren, slightly dingy building with each room accommodating six to ten beds. As I entered my room, I began to have second thoughts. Five German fellows were drinking from a "suitcase" of cheap beer, playing cards, and listening to loud music from a boom box. Drinking is strictly "verboten"
at the hostel, but I imagined myself at their age and figured I would have been right alongside them 20 years ago. "Don't worry", the most outgoing of the bunch said, "We're going out in few minutes."

I climbed up to my bunk and settled in. As promised, the Germans filed out and the rest of my roomies were all sleeping or at least quiet. I'd like to say I drifted off and enjoyed a peaceful night. I had moments of fitful rest, and could never quite get comfortable. Then, around 4, my Teutonic bunkmates returned, fully lubricated and quite chatty. I grumbled at them a few times, and they eventually settled into bed and drifted off. My alarm startled me at 6:30, and I quietly slipped down the hall to shower, loathing my "adventurous spirit".

After several cups of coffee at the conference, I felt restored and ready for the day. This was, after all, the epicenter of great American cheese. All of the sessions were informative and helpful, though there was one tedious moment during a Q & A session regarding the safety of unpasteurized cheese. I had no idea the level of passion this held for some of the participants, and I can say with confidence they would have gone at it for hours if the moderator hadn't changed topics.

The conference ended with the Festival of Cheese, a function open to the public, featuring every cheese submitted for judging. We're talking about more than a thousand entries, and as I walked into the hall, I was a bit taken aback. The football-field room held a number of tables bearing, if not mountains, then small hills of cheese. At one end, there was a scale version of the Chicago skyline sculpted from a wide array of cheese. Really.

I found a glass of wine and plunged into the fray. Most of the tasters were orderly and polite, but getting near the grand prize winners (the top three cheeses of the bunch) required some tenacity. All together, I think I tried close to a hundred cheeses, all of them good, some amazing. There were a few other vendors in attendance, the best, for me, a charcuterie outfit from Utah, Creminelli. Nice stuff from free range herds.

About then, my phone began to vibrate. It was John, and he wanted to know if I would come back to Winnetka for the night and join them for dinner at a local Italian place. Sated with cheese, salumi, and bread, my stomach said no. Then I considered the prospects of one more night at the Hostel. "I'll be there as quick as I can.", I replied, starting a beeline toward my soon-to-be former residence.

Fortunately, by the time I reached the station I had an hour's wait before the next train. This gave me time to digest a bit, and when I found the Weir's dining al fresco at their favorite tratorria, I was persuaded to try the fish special and a nice salad. Everything was, to borrow one of John's favorite descriptors, fabulous. Since this is a blog and I can make up the rules, I'd like to pass on, again, my gratitude to Nick and Nora Weir for their kindness and generosity. Cheese is coming your way!

On the drive home, as is custom, we spent less time talking and more reflecting. I felt like I'd climbed up a few notches on the cheese-knowledge ladder, been introduced to thoughts and theories I'd never even considered, and found a potential (more later) mentor. Best of all, I felt a renewed confidence that if my fellow attendees could do it, so could I.

In 2009, the Conference will be in Austin, Texas. I plan on staying at the hotel.

The Journey Begins...

2008-12-09T09:05:00.000-08:00

Well, not really. The journey started a while back. "The Journey Started A While Back" sounds less interesting, though.

I have been working on getting my artisan cheese business (Alemar Cheese Company) off the ground for the past six months. This blog will hopefully chronicle the project from infancy to international acclaim, or at least to the point where I'm making a living and enjoying the work.

I hope to post often, and rather than attempt to catch you up chronologically, I'll fill in bits and pieces as we proceed. Since this is the maiden voyage, I will start with the basics.

My name is Keith. I live in Mankato, Minnesota. I have two daughters, Alexandra, 14, and Mariel, 12, from a previous marriage. If you have already solved the enigma from whence the name "Alemar" derives, you are quite savvy. At the risk of sounding like a sap, Alex and Mari are the best thing that ever happened to me, so the name feels very natural and right to me.

I grew up in Northern California, moving to Minnesota in 1991 to be with my future ex-wife. For most of my time here, I was the owner/operator of a small family of bagel and artisan bread shops. My former brother-in-law, Tony, and I started with one store and grew to five. From the outset, I loved the business. Making something tangible yet temporary held strong appeal, and I thrived on customer and co-worker contact. When things were good, and they were for a long time, there was some sort of electricity that ran through the business. Like many things in life, an unannounced day arrived when the lifeblood of the company crested and we began a slow march toward extinction. I'll spare you the ugly details, but know that I struggled and fought the entire way down when more obvious and sensible alternatives beckoned.

For most of the past four years I've worked in sales for a local children's book publisher. And, while the work was entirely honorable, I was never fulfilled, not even close, to the way I was doing my own thing. So, despite the potential of failure, I'm making another go of it. Masochistic? Perhaps, but I can't shake the urge to follow this dream.

Which brings us to cheese. Why Cheese? Well, I love the stuff. I mean, even bad cheese is still pretty good. I'm talking about that nacho sauce abomination they slather over stale tortilla chips and Alex adores (she also loves the good stuff). I grimace handing the money over to the snack bar attendant, and walk a few feet in front of her on the way to our movie. Then the lights go down, and I'm reaching over to filch a few chips. I'm guilty of cheese snob hypocrisy...oh well, one more thing to rationalize before the day is done.

But, the great cheese, the type of cheese I aspire to make, that is something altogether different. It has the ability to transcend smell and taste and become something more. I could continue to gush, but let's leave something in reserve for next time.

So, thanks for taking the time to visit, and I hope you'll come back. All the best...